New Jersey State Museum — © Brian Rose
Last week I took the train down to Trenton, capital of New Jersey, a once vibrant industrial city on the Delaware River. I’d been to the city a few times–I photographed the New Jersey Statehouse some years back, and I photographed a new minor league baseball stadium–even got to take pictures during a game, which was great fun. This time I was there to scout the New Jersey State Museum, a 60s modern building adjacent to the Statehouse complex.
Walking from the train station through a largely desolate downtown on a rainy afternoon I was momentarily shocked. I guess I’ve spent too much time in New York and Amsterdam, both incredibly vital places.
State Street, Trenton, mid-afternoon — © Brian Rose
Traffic was light in downtown Trenton, and several kids on banana bikes weaved down State Street oblivious to traffic, forcing cars to screech to a halt as the bikes swerved into their paths. A trickle of shoppers moved desultorily by pawn shops, sneaker and t-shirt outlets, fast food restaurants, and jewelry store windows filled with gold chains. These shops, mostly occupying small buildings cowered alongside hulking stone civic structures and office monoliths housing government bureaucrats. On the blocks beyond, were acres of parking lots and scattered commercial and residential structures, some in ruins.
Dowtown Trenton — © Brian Rose
Dowtown Trenton — © Brian Rose
Further down State Street I reached the Statehouse and other public buildings including my destination, the recently renovated museum. A row of handsome townhouses stood opposite. Tall trees lined the street. This being August, and the legislature out of session, the government quarter was empty. And all this marble and brick emptiness stood just a few blocks from the largely empty downtown.
Thomas Edison College/Kelsey Building– © Brian Rose
Designed by Cass Gilbert, architect of the Woolworth Building
in Manhattan. One of many such gems sprinkled about the city.
Statehouse Annex — © Brian Rose
There are still 80,000 people living in Trenton, and I do not mean to insult those who live there by choice or by circumstance. Undoubtedly, there are efforts being made to bolster existing neighborhoods and chart a course forward for the city as a whole. I would love to be taken around the city by someone who knows the place from within. But as a traveler passing through, I left feeling saddened, confused, wondering how things could be allowed to decline so far.
Just up the road, of course, is Princeton with its gleaming corporate office parks, research institutions, and the university, one of the greatest in the world. The dissonance between these two worlds is troubling–and not an isolated phenomenon in a society where money flows freely from one favored place to another, and even major cities are left behind, their architectural and human assets essentially abandoned.
Congrats on your first trip to Trenton, you’ve managed to express the perceptions of everyone else who only visits once and never gets past downtown. Not that I blame you, I felt the same way for years while living about 10 miles away. The action in the city takes place in the neighborhoods, especially Chambersburg and the South Ward. Walking around these places is not for the unacquainted or faint of heart, even in broad daylight. Driving in a car you might as well just Google Trenton – Images. The ONLY way to see the city and learn something about it is by bicycle. But there again, you need a bit of courage the first dozen times. Getting around the city can be very confusing. A lack of street signs and an abundance of potholes doesn’t help. Summer evenings at dusk the place comes alive, with people all over the streets drinking, smoking etc. the aformentioned neighborhoods have a surprising number of restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. Takes awhile, but once you get to kow the place it’s worth the effort.
Thanks for your comment. Your perspective is exactly what i was referring to when I said it would be great to be taken around by someone who knows the city from the inside.
I was just first comming to USA and unfortunately choose Trenton as a place to send my daughter here attending school, although the school is a good one.When i was in new cities I will always like to walk a while to see something new, in china or oversease.Before comming I already did some preparation works by internet, google maps of the city, to see if there is a place to take pictures,,, etc, finally i was there, after enjoy pizza i walked along to the street if u can call it a street, i wandered if USA still a modernized country compared to my mind,the comparison between the third world and top democracy country is obviousely there, at developing country there are prosperious market booming, much of choices,everyone working hard, energentic, safe,meanwhile, Trenton, nothing but a sigh!!! I never seen a grave like city befeore at any of other place.As a foreigner I didnot master English well as Author here Brian Rose,just explained my feelings here.
I also visited some mall and market place of this region, all I have seen was lack of investment on infrasture of the city ,beside the market , all the road in very bad condition, maybe that’s why US government dont levy fees for comming through the road,that’s good for cheaper but bad for feelings.At the same time,everything in china is brand new ,that made me a big confuse so that i decided to re-enter downtown of Trenton to follow brian rose ‘s foot prints.
Thx everyone.
Those of us living in New York, which has been booming in recent years, are often shocked to realize that many American cities are in steep decline. Current events in the St. Louis area point to the serious racial and economic problems that dominate that region, once one of the most prosperous cities in the country. Trenton is one of many small cities that were built on a manufacturing base that long ago disappeared, and little has been done stem the tide of people and money. Princeton just down the road, as I wrote in my post, is a center of education, high tech industry, and pharmaceuticals — a bastion of wealth and creativity. These two worlds live side by side just a few miles from each other.